Wineblog

by Edo Heyns

Laid-back surfer, Beaumont winemaker and popular Chenin dude, Sebastian Beaumont, has contagious confidence in Botrivier and the Cape. He suggests that there is a new generation of South African winemakers that are not copying the French, Aussies or Americans, but confidently embrace the South Africanness of their wines.

“There seemingly used to be an obsession with trying to keep up with the trends of other wine producing countries, but winemakers are now more often well-travelled and world-wise in wine terms – and they know that they can confidently take on the best,” explains Sebastian.

And he also puts his money where his mouth is: Chenin is Beaumont’s key varietal, followed by Pinotage, as the red flag-bearer.

“It is impossible to make a Loire Chenin in Botrivier, but it is possible to make world class Chenin here – which is exactly what we are intending to do.”

The Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc has earned its place among SA’s leading Chenins and the single block is now being rejuvenated by young vines, replacing the old stalwarts that didn’t endure the journey, which started in 1978.

Sebastian’s off the beaten track approach is also reflected in Beaumont’s unconventional blend, Vitruvian – a very distinct synergy of Mourvèdre, Pinotage, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

The increasingly authoritative blend is Beaumont’s take on a ‘Cape Blend’, which is not just defined by its Pinotage content. “I want this wine to reflect the best of Botrivier and that is how the blend is assembled.”

Sebastian says that South African reds were first too green and later too ripe. The Vitruvian challenge is now to find the sweet spot in the middle; fruit purity and less oak.

The result is a wine that improves with age and is generous, authentic, structured, characterful, complex, and very distinctive. If that is what “South Africanness” entails, I’ll proudly wave the flag.

by Elona Hesseling

At our wine club’s recent tasting of a few Chenin Blancs, I was eager to see what will be put on the table in such a diverse category. Considered to have a somewhat chameleon-like nature, the versatility found in even our small line-up showcased the complexity of styles on offer.

The Chenin Blanc Association have been trying to define these styles, ranging from fresh and fruity, to rich and ripe wooded, but found that even the toughest critics had trouble spotting the difference. So without trying to classify and categorise them into style boxes, we went back to basics and put our taste buds to the test with each individual glass-full.

It was mostly an impressive line-up across the spectrum with the selection ranging from R42 to R160 per bottle. The Windmeul Reserve Chenin Blanc 2010 is a very good value–for-money wine at R42 – well-integrated, soft oak resulting in a fresh finish, with good purity of fruit and a juicy palate.

The Zonnebloem Limited Edition 2011 Chenin Blanc, selling for R65 a bottle, showed good balance with tropical fruit and a soft finish – an easy drinking choice for those favouring the more tutti-fruity styles.

On the other side of the spectrum was the Beaumont Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2011. It has a lovely toastiness, with cinnamon spice and peaches, hints of vanilla and a perfumy finish.

This wine has a lot going on and although it is both interesting and captivating, it wasn’t everyone’s cup of Chenin. At R160 it is a wine made for the future – one to lay down for a few years so that the pieces of the puzzle can fall into place. At the risk of sounding completely clichéd, watch this space …

A new wine from a trusty cellar was the all-round favourite and highest scoring Chenin of the day – Spier’s 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2010. It is complex, with white peaches and lime, a soft creaminess and fresh, clean finish. The grapes come from vineyards in Lynedoch, Simonsberg and Durbanville and the wine spent 14 months in 60% new French oak barrels. It sells at R118 a bottle.

Tasting these wines once again confirmed that Chenin Blanc is undoubtedly one ofSouth Africa’s most exciting and versatile white wine categories at present time – without even considering the semi-sweet quaffers, sweet nobles and fuller fortifieds.

Although the different styles may be somewhat confusing to the average Joe, high quality wines are increasingly being produced at every price point – making it a safe, yet experimental choice for any palate.

Wine of the week

by Elona Hesseling

Visiting my family in Calitzdorp the past weekend presented us with the perfect opportunity to indulge in some interesting wines and home-made farm food, with the fermenting smell of port literally around the corner. While the braaivleis-fire started crackling and the bread began baking, it was time to uncap the first white.

It seemed that there was no chance of keeping the best for last, as we kicked the evening off with a superb bottle of Vondeling Babiana 2008 – a four-way white blend from Voor Paardeberg, outside of Paarl. Although complex and layered, the wine remains true to the four cultivars it comprises of, with a lot of typical characteristics.

The 57% Chenin Blanc provides enticing flavours of white peaches on the nose and palate, while the generous 21% of Viognier lends its floral and spicy side, with jasmine and white pepper. The Chardonnay, at 19%, adds hints of citrus and orange blossom, combined with the fresh acidity from the 3% Grenache Blanc, to complete the picture.

It is a well-balanced wine – full and creamy, yet restraint – and at 13% alcohol it has a clean and refreshing finish. The juice was naturally fermented in 500 litre French oak barrels, contributing to the complexity of the finished product, while the seven months’ lees contact, malolactic fermentation and further barrel maturation, ensures a wine with a smooth palate and well-integrated oak.

Maybe not as risky as its Swartland counterparts down the road, this clean-cut, yet alluring wine is great for those lazy evenings, with or without food. And at R95 a bottle, the Babiana is also a more affordable alternative – no need to feel guilty while glugging it next to the braaivleis-fire, with or without the family.