Wineblog

by Edo Heyns

Authenticity. This is the one characteristic of wine that I appreciate most. It’s what makes old vines, special vintages and perfect winemaking appealing and it cannot be instantly replicated or fabricated.

This is also what sets the Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection Grenache apart. The grapes are sourced from a nearly forgotten bushvine vineyard in Piekenierskloof, which was planted in 1965 and for years only produced grapes that disappeared in huge co-operative blends.

Luckily things have changed and since 2007 the isolated Grenache block has been getting the recognition it deserves. Through the masterly efforts of the Neil Ellis team, the emphasis of this wine is on the unique character of this cultivar and site – not wood or modern winemaking.

Old barrels are used and viticultural practices are limited to basic suckering. This results in a perfumy and rich wine, with delicate fruit, spice and lovely earthiness.

I had the 2009 vintage last night and was particularly impressed by the way it opened up in the glass: from dried herbs and black olives, to plummy fruit and cinnamon, to cherry tobacco and orange peel.

It goes for R275, but who can put a price on authenticity?

deur Elona Nel

Van borrels tot buitengewone rooiwyne … daar het vanjaar vele nuwe sterre en ou gunstelinge in my wynglas beland. Alhoewel daar natuurlik soms teleurstellings en mislukte probeerslae opgeduik het, is daar oorgenoeg opwindende wêreldklas wyne in die rondte – definitief oorgenoeg om oor (huis toe) te skryf.

Twee Méthode Cap Classiques het beïndruk en is op my Top 5-lysie vir 2011 – die een is elegant en puristies, maar met ʼn goeie struktuur en volheid, terwyl die ander ryk en romerig, dog vars en fris is.

My top 5 wyne vir 2011:

Graham Beck Brut Zero 2005. Dit het ʼn unieke mineraliteit en met geen dosage wat bygevoeg is nie, is dié wyn skoon en oop. Die gebruik van beide Chardonnay en Pinot Noir verseker ʼn groot verskeidenheid geure en die MCC eindig beide vol en vars. Dit verkoop teen R205 per bottel.

Colmant se Brut Chardonnay NV is ʼn versnit van sewe jaar se wyne wat ʼn minimum van 36 maande op die gismoer spandeer het. Die beskuitjie-karakter is indrukwekkend, met ʼn volheid en romerigheid wat goed afgerond is deur die varsheid van die suur, groenappelgeure en sitruskarakter. Die prys is R158 per bottel.

ʼn Wyn wat met ʼn indrukwekkende bang uit die staanspoor weggespring het, is De Wetshof se nuwe “The Site” Chardonnay 2009 teen R115. Tropiese vrug-, sitrus- en lemmetjiegeure word gekombineer met ʼn ryk, romerige botterkaramel- en houtkarakter. Dit is baie goed geïntegreer en die wyn is steeds baie vars op die palet met ʼn aangename neutagtigheid.

ʼn Ou gunsteling en altyd indrukwekkende wyn is Neil Ellis se Grenache, en tydens ʼn vertikale proe van die 2007, 2008 en 2009 het ek nuwe respek vir hierdie 53-jaar oue Piekenierskloof-wingerde gekry. Die 2009 word gemaak in die meer moderne styl, waarvolgens slegs 75% van die wyn in ou Franse eikehoutvate verouder word, terwyl die oorblywende 25% in die tenk bly. Komplekse geure van naeltjies, peper en rooibessies, met ʼn sagte, fluweelagtige nasmaak slaan die spyker op die kop. Dié wyn verkoop teen R275 by die proelokaal.

Creation se Syrah 2009 is ʼn Hemel-en-Aarde-vallei rooiwyn op sy heel beste en die diep, donker kleur dui op die misterie van hierdie wyn. Aromatiese geure van kersies, viooltjies, swartbessies en peperagtige speserye word goed afgerond met ʼn sagte, tog lewendige mineraliteit op die smaak. Die prys is R155 per bottel.

by Elona Nel

Neil Ellis is one of the wine industry’s most loved and respected winemakers and has been in the game for four decades – producing quality wines with a never-say-die, burning passion. During a media lunch held at their new premises on the Helshoogte Pass, it was Neil himself who emphasised that their focus has always been on pride, passion, vision and technological competence.

The winemaking team: Reginald Holder, Neil Ellis and Warren Ellis.

Although the production will still take place at the Oude Nektar property in Jonkershoek for another two years, the new location is already home to the tasting room and administration facilities. After 18 years and with a booming new generation, Neil and business partner Hans Peter Schröder, aim to give both family businesses room to grow individually. The partnership, however, will remain as strong as ever and the sourcing of grapes and access to vineyard sites will remain an important part of Neil Ellis Wines.

The ultra-modern tasting room, designed by Lorenzo Nassimbeni, has breathtaking views of the valley and lunch was prepared by the chef of French-inspired Café Dijon – a perfect partner to the classic and elegant wines. Four tasting stations provided the opportunity to explore four vineyard sites – Groenekloof, Piekenierskloof, Elgin and Jonkershoek Valley – with older vintages also on offer.

An interesting line-up was the 2007, 2008 and newly released 2009 Grenache from Piekenierskloof, where the use of oak have dramatically been reduced over the years. From 20% new wood, to only older wood, to a section completely unwooded … these grapes are sourced from 53 year old bushvines – a real gem in a relatively young industry.

Neil’s son Warren, who shares the responsibilities as winemaker and viticulturist, also highlights the fact that they are trying to move away from overly oaked wines. A tasting of two Pinotages illustrates another facet of this approach, with the 1998 matured in smaller barrels, while the 2007 spent its time in larger 500 and 300 litre barrels.

An industry riddled with economic and social challenges, Neil stresses the importance of passion and emotion. “Wine itself, the passion of it, needs to be more important than the business. We need to reinstall passion,” he explains. And with consumers scaling down to lower value wines, Neil remains hopeful that there will always be a place for high-end, high quality vino. “Wine lovers may not know a lot about wine, but they certainly do care.”