Wineblog

 by Elona Hesseling

The current 2009 vintage of the Simonsig Tiara illustrates just how constantly innovation takes place at this winery with the first time addition of Malbec to the blend.

When tasting this flagship Bordeaux-style blend across several vintages, one thing undeniably remained the same since 1990 – the overall high quality. Cellarmaster Johan Malan has been driving this evolution since the eighties, joined by red wine-maker Debbie Thompson in 1999.

The Simonsig Tiara-team: Debbie Thompson and Johan Malan.

Debbie explains that the aim with the Tiara is to achieve femininity, finesse and elegance – “basically, a princess with a lot of guts”. Each vintage was made according to the strengths of that year and the quality of the different components. The grapes were also harvested according to taste and phenolic ripeness – thus the evident variation of alcohol from 12.6% to 15% throughout the past 19 years.

According to Johan, this can also be ascribed to the widespread criticism experienced in the nineties towards greenness in red wines, which led to a trend of picking the grapes later, inevitably resulting in a higher alcohol. “Acidity in red wine was also very high in those days,” Johan remembers. “We used to raise the acid to a specific level across the board, without even evaluating the wines separately.”

Luckily, this did not negatively impact the 1990 or 1995 on show – both have good acid and tannin structures, especially for their age, but are balanced and complex. The 1990 even more so than the 1995, with lovely fruit flavours, sweet leather and an intriguing smokiness.

My favourite of the day, however, was the 2005 vintage. It is a soft wine, with earthy, cedar and floral aromas, pure black-and red berry fruit on the palate and a good structure. According to Debbie, this was a superb vintage, especially for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which makes up 94% of the blend.

These wines are definitely worth waiting for. The current 2009 sells for R175 per bottle and although it expresses lovely blueberry and cigar box flavours, with a soft and fresh finish, it is not nearly at its peak.

Paired with venison loin and a port sauce, prepared by chef Lucas Carstens at the Cuveé restaurant, the wine opens up even more – but if there is one thing I learned from the wines and team at Simonsig, it is that good things take time. So I will lay down my bottle, remain patient and wait for the princess to work her magic.

by Elona Hesseling

One of the requirements of my job is to drink at least one exceptional wine per week (for this blog, of course). Privileged and spoilt some may say, this is not without its difficulties, as the constant search for something great, unique and interesting may not always be so simple.

Yet, something worthy always seems to make its way into my glass – whether it is through a process of elimination, or just rigorous selection. Regardless, the Veenwouden Classic 2007 is my top tipple this week: a classic Bordeaux-styled blend from Paarl of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Lingering flavours of violets, plums and blackberries, as well as other intriguing hints of liquorice, dark chocolate and smokiness, tantalise the senses. The tasted, or rather sipped and savoured, 2007 vintage is sold out, with the current 2008 selling for around R217 a bottle.

UK retailer Oddbins recently launched a new website, where customers can select wines according to their mood. The wines are further paired with situations and events, such as watching motor sport or coming home after a bad date, as well as with various kinds of music.

So, in accordance with this refreshing new way of wine pairing, when should you drink a good wine, and specifically this Veenwouden Classic? With its smooth and supple texture that is both velvety and warm, it is the perfect accompaniment to a hearty and enticing meaty dish. However, it will also compliment any deep and meaningful moment, one that is hearty and enticing.

by Elona Nel

When buying wine on the global market, consumers tend to stick to what they know – familiar country and cultivar combinations. Shiraz from Australia, Cabernet from Napa, Malbec from Argentina and Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The latter variety being one of this century’s blue-eyed boys, with its reign extending further than just New Zealand and France’s Loire Valley.

Mario Miranda (winemaker of Frontera White Wines), Fernando Cordova (Laffort representative from Chile) and Danie Malherbe (Laffort).

At the recent Bartho Eksteen Sauvignon Blanc Celebration in Hermanus, South African Sauvignons were benchmarked against a selection from Chile. Presenting this tasting of Chilean Sauvies from across the country was Mario Miranda – who started his career at the famous Concha Y Toro in 1996 and is now winemaker for Frontera White Wines.

Chile is a country that stretches over 4 300 km from north to south and Mario explained that the conditions are very similar to South Africa, with the influence of the ocean and mountains. Even though the central and southern areas are better known for their quality, some interesting wines are also made in the drier North – an area characterised by the cool oceanic influence, morning fog, wind and lots of sunlight. The wines from these areas have abundant tropical fruit flavours, with asparagus, some citrus hints and lots of tinned green peas and a flinty, gunpowder finish.

Overall a little less complex and elegant compared to its South African counterparts, where the Chilean wines tend to express one main characteristic, instead of a whole flavour wheel. Moving down towards Central Chile and the famed Casablanca Valley, the tropical flavours are profuse, with a distinct salty minerality. Trumping South Africa in terms of price paid for grapes, the average ton of Sauvignon is sold for around 1 500 USD – a bit more than the “high” price it reaches locally.

Moving further South, a tasting of Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc from the Colchagua Valley illustrates the more usual “green” side expressed in wines from that area. High levels of metoxipyrazine results in the typical green pepper flavour, with a noticeably higher acidity, ending fresh, crisp and elegant.

Chile’s wine industry has evolved over the past decade by drastically improving their vineyard management and winemaking process. And even though the wines are becoming increasingly popular in the export market, the general consensus at the benchmark tasting was that our local producers can hold their heads high – they are (at least for now) still a cut above these New World competitors.

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