Wineblog

by Elona Hesseling

Categorising wine producing areas in terms of cultivars is nothing new – we tend to favour Cabs from Stellenbosch, Chardonnays from Elgin and Sauvignon from Durbanville. But Fleur du Cap undeniably believes, like Wosa, that variety is in our nature, with their Unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc comprising components from no less than five areas.

Terroir is a tough one – a very romantic notion of something we try, but often fail, to understand. A tasting held at Bergkelder with Fleur du Cap cellarmaster Andrea Freeborough and viticulturist Bennie Liebenberg, tried to shed some light on the effect of terroir, by tasting various wines from different areas.

Part of the Fleur du Cape team: Deidre Sampson (global marketing manager: super and ultra premium wines), Bennie Liebenberg (viticulturist) and Andrea Freeborough (cellarmaster).

Sauvignon samples of the 2012 harvest from Elgin, Stellenbosch, Lutzville, Darling and Cape Agulhas were tasted. Every area is unique and although I can merely rant and rave about the flavours and characteristics each delivers, it is interesting to note that aside from the effect of different soil types, sunlight exposure, rainfall or even rootstock, viticultural practices play just as an important part.

In Elgin, grapes are sourced from Deon Joubert at Palmiet Rivier, where the vines are trellised on Smart Dyson to cater for the vigorous soils. Although the wine has both tropical and greener flavours, Andrea admits that they had higher expectations from this area. It has been improving, however, with Bennie opening up the vineyards to increase sunlight exposure – producing a wine most likely fit for the final Unfiltered blend.

The Sauvignon from the Lomond vineyards in Cape Agulhas is smooth and round, with tropical hints and a prominent minerality. These vineyards are subject to windy conditions and very moderate temperatures. They were recently planted, on an array of soil types, with a different clone used than in the other areas – according to Andrea, the quality has also been improving.

When moving to South African whipping boy, Merlot, samples from Cape Agulhas and Stellenbosch were compared. Again completely different, with the Lomond grapes resulting in a more feminine, leaner and perfumy wine, while the Devon Valley Merlot is a classic example, with great tannins and rounded flavours.

Bennie has been experimenting with the Merlot vineyards as well, making use of Smart Dyson trellising and removing leaves and side shoots, thus exposing it more, resulting in a  wine that is less ‘green’. It is a promising technique, but extremely time consuming.

Although the Fleur du Cap wines are “inspired by nature”, it seemingly takes a knowledgeable hand in the vineyard, and ultimately the cellar, to make the most of the given terroir. Things take time and Bennie’s hard work will start to show in the near future – as they say, the proof is in the pudding.

deur Elona Hesseling

Sauvignon Blanc is nou maar eenmaal ʼn wêreld-wye sukses storie – van die Loire vallei en Bordeaux in Frankryk, Marlborough in Nieu-Seeland en basies alle ander wynproduserende lande tussen-in, met Suid-Afrika geen uitsondering.

Hoewel die kultivar soms gekritiseer word vir te hoë sure en min geure, is dit ʼn wyn wat steeds hoog aangeskrewe is deur elke Jan, Rap en Robert Parker. Een van die vele style van Sauvignon wat toenemend sukses behaal, is die Bordeaux-tipe – waar dit versny word met Sémillon en ʼn gedeelte daarvan gewoonlik met hout in kontak kom.

Die Mentors-reeks van KWV se nuwe oesjaar Sauvignon Blanc 2011 is juis só ʼn wyn, met net onder die 15% Sémillon bygevoeg en waarvan daardie gedeelte in ouer vate gegis is. Die druiwe is afkomstig van Stellenbosch, vanaf ʼn spesifieke ligging teen die Bottelary heuwels.

Hierdie wingerd is taamlik hoog en lewer ʼn wyn met ʼn intense  konsentrasie en vars suur. Vir dié wingerd was 2011 ook ʼn veel beter jaar as 2010 – ʼn jaar waartydens daar glad nie ʼn Mentors Sauvignon Blanc vrygestel is nie.

Vir ʼn kelder van KWV se grootte, is hierdie vlagskip-reeks ʼn ware skatkis van voortreflike wyne. Daar is slegs 2 700 liter van hierdie spesifieke wyn geproduseer, wat teen R120 ʼn bottel verkoop word. Dit is ʼn goed gebalanseerde wyn, met appelliefie, groen soetrissie, granadilla en blomagtige geure, ʼn heerlike mineraliteit en delikate, dog vol struktuur.

Tydens middagete by Laborie se Harvest restaurant het bekende chef Matthew Gordon die vorige 2009-oesjaar met sy spesialis gereg, gerookte plaaslike forel, voorgesit. Hierdie wyn is steeds wonderlik vars en geurig en het met die kos tot sy volle reg gekom, moontlik ʼn voorskou van die verouderings potensiaal van die 2011.

by Elona Hesseling

Wine tasting along the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley is one of my favourite pastimes in Hermanus and with the rainy weather over Easter weekend, it seemed everyone had the same idea – a good thing for Pinot sales.

Even though we waited quite long at all three visited (and very busy) wineries, the service was good and the personnel kept their cool, amidst a flurry of thirsty, wet and cold vinophiles. The Valley’s wineries are known for their high quality wines, so instead of rambling down tasting notes of the approximately 30 wines we tasted, I will rather focus on the day’s most memorable wine-moments.

1. Location, location, location

As true in viticulture as with property development, the team at Bouchard Finlayson knows how to play their cards – if you can’t beat them, source grapes from an isolated vineyard in Kaaimansgat, behind Villiersdorp, and produce an outstanding Chardonnay.

One of four Chardonnays on offer from this winery, the Kaaimansgat 2010 was top of my list – delicate white fruit, citrus and well-integrated oak, it is a ripe but elegant wine. The Missionvale, from Hemel-en-Aarde grapes, is quite different with a prominent yeasty and creamy character.

Vineyards at Bouchard Finlayson

2. In two minds

Being spoiled for choice is not something to complain about – especially when deciding between two very different, but intriguing Pinot Noirs from Newton Johnson. This Burgundian red is the perfect antidote to being soaking wet and cold in this chic tasting room.

The Elgin Pinot Noir 2010 is fuller and richer, with a minerally, earthy side and savoury, almost smoky, finish. In my other glass, the Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2010, with grapes from the property itself, is delicate, fresh and soft – fruit driven and perfumy, with cherries and peppery notes. Although I preferred the Family Vineyards, it is a difficult choice to make. My proposed solution? Get both.

The Newton Johnson tasting room

3. Now that’s my kind of dessert

What better way to finish a wine tour than with some bubbly. The vibe at La Vierge reminded of a classy night on the town and even though I enjoyed the crisp and enticing Redemption Sauvignon Blanc 2008, as well as the smooth and opulent 2009 Anthelia, a Shiraz/Mourvedre blend, the highlight for me came from the Domaine des Dieux range.

Produced and available for tasting at La Vierge, the 2007 Claudia MCC was my cherry on the cake. Chardonnay-led with Pinot Noir, it is fresh, yet creamy with lovely berry-hints and fine bubbles. Even in cold and rainy weather, there is no better way to end off a day than with a glass of well-made bubbly.