Wineblog

deur Edo Heyns

Gistermiddag was ek by ’n proe waar die begroting van die wyne oorskry is om ’n spesiale wyn te koop. Wynpryse was toe in die kollig, aangesien die verskil tussen die goedkoopste en duurste wyn ’n paar honderd rand was.

Een van die waarde-vir-geld nommers het verras deur uit te staan in uitgelese en veel duurder geselskap. Hartenberg se The Doorkeeper Shiraz 2010 kos ’n skamele R70, maar het die guts van iets wat jou gewoonlik heelwat meer uit die sak jaag.

Dit beïndruk onmiddellik met ’n diep, intense pers-swart kleur en ’n neus van donker vrug en speserye, maar kom veral op die palet tot sy reg. Hier is die konsentrasie van vrugtegeur en goeie struktuur besonders opvallend, met ’n kompleksiteit van donkersjokolade.

Hartenberg het oor die jare sy plek ingeneem as Stellenbosch se Shiraz-spesialis en spog nou met vier van hierdie wyne – wat elkeen ’n unieke styl ten toon stel.

Die vlagskip Gravel Hill 2007 verweef op ’n unieke manier elegansie en brute Shiraz-krag, maar het ’n ewe kragtige prys van R675.

Hul bekende The Stork Shiraz 2007 herinner aan die Aussie speserybomme en troon ook gereeld uit in kompetisies. Hierdie een kos R380 – ook nie kleingeld nie.

Die ‘standaard’ Hartenberg Shiraz is alles behalwe ’n standaard wyn en is die mees vrugtige van die lot – met veral sappige moerbei gewoonlik aan die voortou. Die 2007-oesjaar word tans verkoop.

Dit is ’n ervaring om hierdie wyne langs mekaar te proe, maar een wat ook die gemiddelde wynproeër se begroting oorskry. Die Stork en Gravel Hill word net op spesiale versoek by die proelokaal oopgemaak, maar al die wyne behoort ook hul verskyning te maak by Hartenberg se Shiraz & Charcuterie-fees, wat 2 Junie by hierdie plaas aangebied word.

by Elona Nel

When buying wine on the global market, consumers tend to stick to what they know – familiar country and cultivar combinations. Shiraz from Australia, Cabernet from Napa, Malbec from Argentina and Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The latter variety being one of this century’s blue-eyed boys, with its reign extending further than just New Zealand and France’s Loire Valley.

Mario Miranda (winemaker of Frontera White Wines), Fernando Cordova (Laffort representative from Chile) and Danie Malherbe (Laffort).

At the recent Bartho Eksteen Sauvignon Blanc Celebration in Hermanus, South African Sauvignons were benchmarked against a selection from Chile. Presenting this tasting of Chilean Sauvies from across the country was Mario Miranda – who started his career at the famous Concha Y Toro in 1996 and is now winemaker for Frontera White Wines.

Chile is a country that stretches over 4 300 km from north to south and Mario explained that the conditions are very similar to South Africa, with the influence of the ocean and mountains. Even though the central and southern areas are better known for their quality, some interesting wines are also made in the drier North – an area characterised by the cool oceanic influence, morning fog, wind and lots of sunlight. The wines from these areas have abundant tropical fruit flavours, with asparagus, some citrus hints and lots of tinned green peas and a flinty, gunpowder finish.

Overall a little less complex and elegant compared to its South African counterparts, where the Chilean wines tend to express one main characteristic, instead of a whole flavour wheel. Moving down towards Central Chile and the famed Casablanca Valley, the tropical flavours are profuse, with a distinct salty minerality. Trumping South Africa in terms of price paid for grapes, the average ton of Sauvignon is sold for around 1 500 USD – a bit more than the “high” price it reaches locally.

Moving further South, a tasting of Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc from the Colchagua Valley illustrates the more usual “green” side expressed in wines from that area. High levels of metoxipyrazine results in the typical green pepper flavour, with a noticeably higher acidity, ending fresh, crisp and elegant.

Chile’s wine industry has evolved over the past decade by drastically improving their vineyard management and winemaking process. And even though the wines are becoming increasingly popular in the export market, the general consensus at the benchmark tasting was that our local producers can hold their heads high – they are (at least for now) still a cut above these New World competitors.

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by Elona Nel

The Rhône-style blend is one of this century’s most fashion forward moves from New World cellars. Although still living in the shadow of big brother Bordeaux, this exciting category is extremely diverse, with a multitude of Mediterranean possibilities. 

Stirring up Rhône-style blends, Viognier’s “flower-power” should not be underestimated.

With blending options from 10 varieties in the proper Rhône-blends, and even more Southern Hemisphere derivatives, it might be like comparing apples and pears. Nevertheless, it was attempted by tasting two of these wines – both commonly known as SMV, or rather Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Viognier – a Leopard’s Leap Family Collection 2008 and Zonnebloem 2009.

Incidentally, these were almost complete opposites – the Leopard’s Leap SMV has a very generous dash of Viognier, bringing forward upfront floral characters, blended well with the more fruit-driven Shiraz and Mourvèdre, resulting in abundant red berries. A smooth, soft wine, with less spice and oak flavours, it is typically a more accessible, New World take on this style.

The Zonnebloem SMV, however, had a rather shy nose, with spice and smoke, followed by dark, plummy fruit on the palate. The Viognier is only really detected on the aftertaste, where it follows through with an unmistakable floral and apricot aroma. Aimed at traditionalists (as is evident by the age-old label), this is a more old-school Rhône-style blend.

One of the defining differences lies in the usage of Viognier – the 15th most planted variety in South Africa and winner of the General Smuts Trophy at this year’s Young Wine Show for Riebeek Cellar. A dash thereof is believed to freshen up and lift especially Shiraz and Shiraz-based blends. Being a very fragrant variety, however, it is crucial to get your blending right – one percent too much, may be way too much.

Taste buds don’t lie, and in this case neither did the tasting notes, with the Leopard’s Leap sporting 10% Viognier, compared to the Zonnebloem’s 5%. Even though resulting in big stylistic differences, both wines were still well-balanced and the Viognier used in relative moderation. Let’s hope all wines in this category will keep it balanced and not overdo the Viognier “flower-power”.