Wineblog

deur Edo Heyns

Gistermiddag was ek by ’n proe waar die begroting van die wyne oorskry is om ’n spesiale wyn te koop. Wynpryse was toe in die kollig, aangesien die verskil tussen die goedkoopste en duurste wyn ’n paar honderd rand was.

Een van die waarde-vir-geld nommers het verras deur uit te staan in uitgelese en veel duurder geselskap. Hartenberg se The Doorkeeper Shiraz 2010 kos ’n skamele R70, maar het die guts van iets wat jou gewoonlik heelwat meer uit die sak jaag.

Dit beïndruk onmiddellik met ’n diep, intense pers-swart kleur en ’n neus van donker vrug en speserye, maar kom veral op die palet tot sy reg. Hier is die konsentrasie van vrugtegeur en goeie struktuur besonders opvallend, met ’n kompleksiteit van donkersjokolade.

Hartenberg het oor die jare sy plek ingeneem as Stellenbosch se Shiraz-spesialis en spog nou met vier van hierdie wyne – wat elkeen ’n unieke styl ten toon stel.

Die vlagskip Gravel Hill 2007 verweef op ’n unieke manier elegansie en brute Shiraz-krag, maar het ’n ewe kragtige prys van R675.

Hul bekende The Stork Shiraz 2007 herinner aan die Aussie speserybomme en troon ook gereeld uit in kompetisies. Hierdie een kos R380 – ook nie kleingeld nie.

Die ‘standaard’ Hartenberg Shiraz is alles behalwe ’n standaard wyn en is die mees vrugtige van die lot – met veral sappige moerbei gewoonlik aan die voortou. Die 2007-oesjaar word tans verkoop.

Dit is ’n ervaring om hierdie wyne langs mekaar te proe, maar een wat ook die gemiddelde wynproeër se begroting oorskry. Die Stork en Gravel Hill word net op spesiale versoek by die proelokaal oopgemaak, maar al die wyne behoort ook hul verskyning te maak by Hartenberg se Shiraz & Charcuterie-fees, wat 2 Junie by hierdie plaas aangebied word.

My wine of the week

Sijnn 2008 – by the Malgas Maverick

by Edo Heyns

Architect, De Trafford Winery proprietor and wine-thought leader, David de Trafford, is a maverick. The short version of the Sijnn story is that he stumbled upon a piece of farmland with unique soil characteristics, while driving around with his wife on a weekend away and ended up being the pioneer of winegrowing in Malgas.

He says that he wasn’t too keen to expand his Stellenbosch property and thought that this unique spot could be “something different”. And how right he was!

Sijnn Wines was officially established in 2003 and with the vines maturing and David getting to grips with the terroir and varietals, the wines are seemingly improving with every vintage.

My favourite of the range and wine of the week is the Sijnn 2008, a Shiraz based blend, with Mourvèdre, Touriga Naçional, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is one of those wines that you keep on sipping and tasting, trying to figure it out and eventually end up finishing the bottle!

Initial impressions are earthy, reminiscent of tea leaves. But then it surprises with remarkable freshness, a crisp fruitiness and dark berries. The different components are marvellously integrated, creating a layered and wonderfully complex wine. To add to this, it will definitely reward cellaring.

The Sijnn 2008 is intriguing, distinct, original and proof that David has found that something different.

By Edo Heyns

With the opening of Casparus restaurant and The Hussar Grill, it seems as if the culinary offerings within the  Stellenbosch town precincts are increasingly gaining on that of the celebrated surrounding wine estate restaurants.

Even though the likes of Rust & Vrede, Terroir (Kleine Zalze) and Overture (Hidden Valley) have already established themselves with
world class dining distinction, the eateries in town always somehow lacked that special something – either being too touristy, too traditional or nothing more than nice.

Ironically the renewed interest in the historic town’s food front can largely be attributed to some of the old hands at winelands restaurants. Etienne Bonthuys – previously at Tokara – has changed the dining scene in the most remarkable way: by dishing up masterpieces at prices that can actually compete with the pool of mediocre “sandwich cafes” closeby. Casparus, his new venture with landscape artist Strydom van der Merwe , opened its doors in March, where Dorpstreet Theatre used to be. Locals and tourists alike have clearly taken notice and Casparus is very often fully booked for lunch and dinner. I’ve had avocado soup (R35) and hake soufflé (R60) starters of which the latter was particularly inspiring. The most popular main – baby calamari with shredded oxtail  at R105 – was adapted from a dish that also made many inquisitive diners cross the Helshoogte pass to Tokara.

A well thought through winelist also deserves a very positive mention. As one can expect, Stellenbosch wines dominate, but by means of an interesting array – varying from easy drinking Muratie Melck’s Red (R100) to classic Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (R305).

The competition for Stellenbosch’s best steak title is suddenly hotly contested.

When thinking proper steak in Stellenbosch, all roads previously led to 96 Winery Road, which is especially well known for its superb rib eye
steak and “Hollandse” Pepper Fillet. With the introduction of specialist steakhouse franchise The Hussar Grill in Plein Street, the competition for Stellenbosch’s best steak title is suddenly hotly contested.

I had a Blue Cheese Sirloin (R122) for lunch there on Sunday and the food, service, ambience and value for money were all top notch. Ken
Forrester’s 96 Winery probably still has the upper hand – mostly due to its superior chips and more exciting wine list.

As in the case of Casparus, The Hussar Grill was also jam-packed at a time that winter specials have become the norm, instead of exception. Both certainly got off to a dream start. Hopefully they keep up the pace, and perhaps also spark some more new food life in a town with enormous potential and apparently more than enough cash going around.