Wineblog

Wine of the week

by Elona Hesseling

Visiting my family in Calitzdorp the past weekend presented us with the perfect opportunity to indulge in some interesting wines and home-made farm food, with the fermenting smell of port literally around the corner. While the braaivleis-fire started crackling and the bread began baking, it was time to uncap the first white.

It seemed that there was no chance of keeping the best for last, as we kicked the evening off with a superb bottle of Vondeling Babiana 2008 – a four-way white blend from Voor Paardeberg, outside of Paarl. Although complex and layered, the wine remains true to the four cultivars it comprises of, with a lot of typical characteristics.

The 57% Chenin Blanc provides enticing flavours of white peaches on the nose and palate, while the generous 21% of Viognier lends its floral and spicy side, with jasmine and white pepper. The Chardonnay, at 19%, adds hints of citrus and orange blossom, combined with the fresh acidity from the 3% Grenache Blanc, to complete the picture.

It is a well-balanced wine – full and creamy, yet restraint – and at 13% alcohol it has a clean and refreshing finish. The juice was naturally fermented in 500 litre French oak barrels, contributing to the complexity of the finished product, while the seven months’ lees contact, malolactic fermentation and further barrel maturation, ensures a wine with a smooth palate and well-integrated oak.

Maybe not as risky as its Swartland counterparts down the road, this clean-cut, yet alluring wine is great for those lazy evenings, with or without food. And at R95 a bottle, the Babiana is also a more affordable alternative – no need to feel guilty while glugging it next to the braaivleis-fire, with or without the family.

by Elona Nel

All cellars are created equal, but some are more equal than others. This is written on a black board inside The Wine Kollective shop in the heart of Riebeek-Kasteel. The Swartland boys and girls definitely believe in themselves and although considered by some as being somewhat arrogant, there is no denying that their self-confidence has paid off.

The Wine Kollective shop claims to be “solely dedicated to the special wines of the small, the famous and the utterly unknown wineries of the Swartland”. A bit of a marketing ploy, sure, but clever slogans and a poised attitude is part of the success of the region.

With a pinch of distinction, many cases of fabulous Chenin and perhaps a slight hint of arrogance, the Swartland has already taken off. This boldness is backed by innovative wines and the challenge is now to maintain this momentum.

by Elona Nel

When companies merge, there is often referred to the 1 + 1 = 3 principle and this also applies when ‘merging’ different batches of wine. The blending process is always a gamble – putting the winemaker’s palate, creativity and gutsiness to the test.

Wooded white blends in South Africa are usually high scorers and although mostly voluptuous and daring, there are many fresh and more restraint examples. The Amalie 2010 from Franschhoek’s Solms-Delta is quite a fair lady, with a blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, selling at R110 per bottle.

It is relatively light in colour with a slight green tinge. The nose is fresh, with floral, orange blossom, white peach and spicy flavours. The palate is creamy but clean, with prominent spicy, nutty and floral characteristics – intertwined to give a refreshing, yet enticing mouth feel.

The Swartland is comparatively commonly known for its maverick winemakers, creating risky but intriguing white blends, usually based on those of the Rhône. These are recognised for their somewhat oxidative characters, with a magnitude of weird, yet wonderful cultivars in the mix.

Lady Amalie is possibly not as ‘out there’ as the so-called maverick white blends and is stylistically similar to the wines of the Northern Rhône – specifically Condrieu and Château-Grillet. Viognier is often criticised  for being overpowering, sharp, robust and alcoholic, yet it can produce complex and unique wines when made well and blended with the right partner.

Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, as with their role in producing the Chateauneuf-du-Pape white wines of Southern Rhône, contribute a fruitiness and minerality to the wine. Used at 33% and 19% respectively in the Amalie, they were blended with the spicy Viognier, combining old tradition and modern winemaking to produce something very different – a successful merger, well worth a bet.