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by Henry Hopkins
Once tasting panels have sniffed, gargled and spat their way through wines
of a specific variety or type, and once the scores have been handed
in for the final verdict, the belated question about parameters
sometimes comes to the fore: “What were we supposed to be
tasting for? What are the typical varietal characteristics?”
Bemused, perplexed reactions are often the result, sometimes even
embarrassment, because who knows, who prescribes, who’s in
charge of a variety to be able to lay down guidelines for aroma,
bouquet and balance?
Varietal
character is determined by the association of odours which exist in
the mind of the taster. A good taster would have gained experience in
relating the olfactory impressions of a particular wine type to
familiar odours which have been memorised. Although the complexity of
great wines often defies analysis, a basic knowledge of a band of
desired characteristics could, and should, be defined and conveyed to
wine judges, producers and even the uninitiated, but potentially
enthusiastic, followers of a given variety. This will lead to a more
sound assessment and appreciation and will provide an adequate range
of beacons for producers.
“As
South Africa’s largest competition for bottled wines, Veritas
should be the engine pulling this process of information and
improvement,” explains Cape Wine Master Duimpie Bayly, who had
been requested by Veritas Chairman Danie de Wet to co-ordinate the
activities of various specialist groups and to assist them in the
development of infrastructure. De Wet foresees a spin-off: a better
idea of quality parameters for the various varieties and specialist
judging panels who know how to apply them when they judge at Veritas.
This step follows question marks behind non-performing wines at
Veritas, that later went on to win international competitions.
“The
idea,” says Bayly, “is to get a ‘driver’ with
above average interest and knowledge of a given variety or wine type
– somebody who is not scared of hard work – and
representatives from all wine-making districts, as well as
viticulturists with specialist knowledge of a variety, for each
variety under discussion.”
Obvious
points of reference are the various associations that have been
established since 1992, when the SA Port Producers’ Association
determined their goals at the founders’ meeting in Calitzdorp
and successfully started pursuing them. They were followed by the
Méthode Cap Classique Producers Association (also in 1992),
Pinotage Association (1995), Pinot Noir Interest Group (June 2000),
Chenin Blanc Association (2000), Muscadel Association (2000) and
Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group (known as SBIG) in December last year.
Bayly
managed to extend the list by encouraging the formation of two new
groups in January this year. Within days of the founding of the
Chardonnay Quality Improvement Group in Robertson, the first Shiraz
Quality Workshop was held at La Motte in Franschhoek.
Currently
Jan Boland Coetzee and Niel Bester are involved in the formation of a
specialist group for Cabernet Sauvignon, while Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Sémillon are also destined for attention.
“My
purpose is to co-operate with these groups on behalf of Veritas and
to develop and guide the making and promotion of specific varieties,
to encourage research and to provide a forum for technical transfer.
Another important step will be the evaluation of wines from around
the world and to hone the tasting skills of Veritas judges,”
explained Bayly at the first meeting of the Shiraz Forum. He later
added that, apart from producers and viticulturists, the panels will
also include wine writers, wine dealers, researchers and consumers …
“as long as the guys are keen.”
At
the moment, interest groups have their own agendas and modus
operandi, while infrastructure and funding are in varying stages of
development. Only the Pinotage Association has long-term sponsorship
and somehow funds will have to be found for the others to assist them
in marketing their product.
Chenin
Blanc Association
Tending
to the neglected image of South Africa’s largest variety, the
Chenin Blanc Association advocates the potential of the grape to take
its rightful place between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They claim
the variety has tremendous commercial potential. Rather than defining
a particular style, it was decided that different styles can be
produced to meet different price points, starting at entry level
right through to upmarket, high-priced, wood-matured wines that will
assist in pulling the category along. Six styles (sparkling wine,
from tank fermented to Cap Classique; early drinking; richer, riper,
drier; oak-influenced dry; semi-sweet and fruity; and Special and
Noble Late Harvest) have been identified and promoted at
well-attended workshops in order to cultivate palates and develop a
reliable panel to judge Chenin according to these styles.
“We
envisage that our new wave Chenin Blancs will culminate in a
rediscovery of the variety at the start of the new millennium,”
states CBA committee member Jeff Grier. “To date we have almost
40 members and we are hoping to get every serious Chenin producer on
board this year. We have made much progress in developing a pool of
competent tasters.”
Plans
for the year include finding a long-term sponsor and developing a
logo and slogan, website, marketing plan, Chenin Blanc aroma wheel
and the classification of wine or vineyard sites. They also plan to
participate in Cape Wine 2002 and to arrange a tasting seminar prior
to the event.
Contact:
Irina von Holdt, (021) 685-6428.
Méthode
Cap Classique Producers’ Association
The
Méthode Cap Classique Producers’ Association has strived
since 1992 to establish the generic term to describe bottle-fermented
sparkling wines in South Africa and internationally. They discuss
quality standards and even insist on approving basis wines submitted
by members.
“The
Cap Classique judging panel for Veritas has been fairly stable over
the past few years,” says Johan Malan of Simonsig. “We meet
to taste our own and overseas wines and try to fit in some intensive
tastings as close to Veritas as possible. Unfortunately last year’s
season didn’t allow enough time for that.”
Malan
admits that they’d like to recruit new tasters onto the Veritas
panel, but also points to the difficulty of finding people with
experience of this highly specialised class.
“In
the past we had problems with ‘judges from outside’ who
hardly ever scored wines above 16. That more or less eliminated any
chances of gold medals in the class, let alone double golds.”
Cape
Wine Masters with knowledge of bottle-fermented wines are often
involved with other panels, but they are planning a “training
tasting” before Veritas and hope to include prospective judges.
Contact:
Jeff Grier (chairman) (021) 882-2002.
Muscadel
South Africa
The
Muscadel Association, or Muscadel South Africa as it is currently
known, was formed at a meeting of Muscadel producers in Robertson in
November 2000 and aims to promote the image of Muscat de Frontignan
(the major grape behind the legendary Constantia wines) and to define
stylistic differences in the under-estimated varieties.
Contact:
Swepie le Roux (chairman) (044) 251-6715, Claude Pretorius
(secretary) (021) 863-3040.
Pinotage
Association
Heading
one of the most advanced and well-funded specialist groups is Beyers
Truter of the Pinotage Association. It was formed in 1995, four years
after Truter won international acclaim for the variety by being
adjudged “Winemaker of the Year” at the 1991 International
Wine and Spirit Competition.
A
generous sponsorship from ABSA Bank enabled the Association to launch
a competition to designate the Top Ten Pinotages that are available
annually in commercial quantities. The competition has served as
benchmark for distinctively styled Pinotage wines, entrenching their
uniqueness in the international world of wine.
With
South Africa being the only significant Pinotage producer in the
world, producers and tasters also depend on these wines for clues
about quality.
Top
Ten winners are marketed in special presentation packs to generate
funds for further research on the variety and Pinotage producers
identify problem areas and prioritise research projects at regular
workshops.
Viticulturists
assist the Association, which recently compiled a comprehensive and
groundbreaking report on aspects of Pinotage production.
Contact:
Beyers Truter (chairman) (021) 884-4656, Pierre Loubser (manager)
(021) 855 1128.
Pinot
Noir Interest Group
Kevin
Grant, who helped to pioneer the Pinot Noir Interest Group in June
2000 and since then has been running it more or less by himself, says
the group meets mainly for specialist tastings “in an informal
yet insightful way”.
“The
aim is to broaden each group member’s palate by encounters with
truly great Pinot Noirs, so that ours can be placed in an
international context.”
He
claims that no other grape variety can accommodate such a wide range
of legitimate styles as a Pinot Noir. Therefore the idea is not to
“pigeonhole” each group member’s perception with that
of the group, but to develop judgement by accumulated experience.
The
group is working on a Pinot Noir Tasting Wheel, spearheaded by Bruce
Jack and Cathy Marshall.
Grant
would like the variety to be judged fairly and accurately, hopefully
by people drawn from the Pinot Noir Interest Group.
Contact:
Kevin Grant (028) 312-3595.
SA
Port Producers Association – SAPPA
As
far as specialist judges for Veritas and other wine shows are
concerned, the SA Port Producers’ Association has already made
big strides. The new Chairman, Tony Mossop, points out that SAPPA was
the first to establish a specialist panel for Veritas, Diners Club,
Wine magazine’s tastings and other competitions. “This
panel has worked very well and has proved to be pretty consistent,”
he says.
SAPPA
was founded by Carel Nel of Boplaas with the encouragement of port
fundi, Theo Rudman. Carel’s cousin and fellow Calitzdorp Port
Producer, Boets Nel, was a stalwart secretary for many years. SAPPA
wants to improve the quality of SA port-style wines by encouraging
the use of Portuguese varieties, vinification according to certain
styles (ruby, vintage, vintage reserve, LBV and tawny) and taste
profiles to match those of classical ports, namely lower sugars (90 –
100 g) and higher alcohol (19% – 20%). SAPPA would like to see
the styles defined by law. Those who have followed the guidelines
have certainly benefited, says Mossop. “Foreign critics reckon
that SA ports are the best outside Europe and the fact that the
Portuguese have been concerned about the threat posed by our quality
is praise enough.”
SAPPA
has been active in representing their 30 members in the “port
and sherry” debate connected with the EU/SA agreement.
“We
will need to develop new message techniques to guide consumers before
the name ‘port’ disappears. Fortunately we have some time
to plan this,” Mossop ensures port lovers.
Instead
of the annual Port Festival at Calitzdorp, SAPPA will be hosting a
Port Fair in Cape Town this year.
Contact:
Tony Mossop (chairman) 082 490 4248, (021) 780-1051.
Sauvignon
Blanc Interest Group – SBIG
Since
Bartho Eksteen’s first Sauvignon Blanc Celebration, at
Wildekrans way back in 1993, interest in the variety has been
formalised in January this year when producers came together for the
first meeting of the Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group. The new
chairman, Bernard Veller, whose Nitida won this year’s Sauvignon
Blanc Celebration, hopes the group will foster excellence in the
making and growing of the variety and, an important point, develop
marketing strategies to promote international understanding of South
African Sauvignon Blancs.
A
wealth of detailed information – including viticultural
perspectives and vinification – was conveyed at the first
meeting. Among the interesting points: Wet seasons in the past
produced better Sauvignon Blancs; high pyrazine levels are associated
with good tropical fruit flavours, riper fruit does not mean more
tropical flavours; allow for leaves that are younger than 40 days, as
they aid acid formation; skin contact needn’t exceed four hours;
etc.
But
the results of a tasting afterwards caused concern, says Veller, “and
highlighted the need for training specialist Sauvignon Blanc panels
to taste this complex and diverse cultivar.
“Although
many of the wines tasted had previously competed favourably against a
number of well-known international Sauvignon Blancs from the New
World, the panel failed to come up with anything above 17 when
averaged or taken on the median … even after analysis, looking
into style preferences.”
Preliminary
ideas for future meetings include a reflection of this year’s
harvest and a review of current research by aromatic compounds
expert, Johann Marais (24 April at Doornbosch); a tasting of 50
Sauvignon Blancs from all over the world and a discussion of clonal
material by Nico Spreeth (June); and a tutored tasting by Prof. Joël
van Wyk (August).
Contact:
Bernhard Veller (chairman) (021) 976-1467.
Shiraz
Forum
Shiraz,
one of the fastest growing red cultivars and therefore also one to be
treated with caution, as many wines are being made from young
vineyards, now also has its own interest group. During January the
Shiraz Forum was founded under chairmanship of La Motte cellarmaster,
Jacques Borman, who invited British Wine Master and Rhône
expert, Remington Norman, to the first workshop.
Remington
said South Africa was able to produce world-class wines from the
variety, but emphasised that Shiraz was not always lenient and that a
minor error during production could result in a wine of average
quality.
Borman
told the meeting that although South Africa needed icon wines in
order to market the country abroad, local winemakers should not go
over the top trying to make great wines.
“The
international market, in particular, is changing and we should
concentrate on balance, finish and preserving those genuine Shiraz
flavours. Over-ripeness, over-extraction and too much wood make our
wines lose their varietal flavour,” he cautioned.
A
tasting of world-famous and champion Shiraz wines concluded the
proceedings.
Jacques
invites all interested parties to join the Shiraz Forum and to work
more closely together to make Shiraz an important player in the SA
wine market.
Contact:
Jacques Borman (chairman) (021) 876-3119.
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Right: "The idea," says Duimpie Bayly, co-ordinator of the special interest groups for Veritas, "is to get a 'driver' with a special interest and knowledge of a given wine type."
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