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Purely a matter of definition ...
Why is organic, even biodynamic, farming regarded as an alternative method? This system, which requires the elimination of fertilisers and pesticides, was the norm before these supposed aids to ensure a consistent food supply for a burgeoning world population were developed post World War II. Today, the various organic certification bodies' initial proposition for wine is to select grape varieties that best suit the location and create a healthy growing environment; both will minimise the likelihood of pest and disease problems. Their argument continues, as it does generally among winemakers, that with healthy grapes it is easier to produce quality wine using fewer aids in the cellar.
But it is in the cellar that the practice runs into obstacles. Many people, erroneously, believe that organically grown grapes automatically produce organic wine, whereas such status depends on both the certifying body and where the wine is sold. For instance, ascorbic acid is an approved ingredient with the Dutch body, SGS, but restricted by both the New Zealand BIO-GRO and the Demeter (USA) bodies. Sulphur dioxide possibly causes the most debate, the problems extending beyond just the legal ones. Some certification bodies permit minimal additions, according to wine style, for the wine to still qualify as organic. Whether or not this applies depends on destination; for instance neither Europe nor the US accept organic status if sulphur dioxide has been added. In this case, the label may only indicate "wine made from certified organic grapes," or, in Demeter (USA)'s case, "made from Demeter Biodynamic© grapes". Despite this audacious registration, Demeter's approach isn't biodynamic as strict adherents know it. There are also ethical issues for both organic grape growers and biodynamic farmers. Johan Reyneke of Reyneke Wines, currently in the process of turning over his entire vineyards to biodynamic farming, argues, "The key is not whether S02 is good or bad, rather when and in what quantities one should use it," adding, "We do use it in the cellar." As does organic grape grower, Roelf du Preez of Bon Cap (SGS certified), who confirms, "The total is normally around 50 mg/l." The addition of S02 is a matter of dispute even among top, international biodynamic producers. Angiolino Maule in Italy's Veneto region would prefer no addition, though he admits to adding a minimal amount prior to bottling. This is not a problem for his co-member of Gruppo Vini Veri, Nicolas Joly of Coul‚e de Serrant in the Loire. On a recent visit to Maule's hilltop vineyards, farmed biodynamically for the past 15 years, I tasted the same 2002 garganega/trebbiano blend made with and without SO2. The former with much brighter fruit, had a total S02 of 47 mg/l. The latter, more suppressed, in part due to Maule working extremely reductively, 24 mg/l. The possibility of unsulphured wine successfully withstanding the rigors and temperature changes of a long journey is now being tested with a consignment sent to Japan. Other than S02, Maule hasn't used any additive or processing agent in his winemaking since 1995. Yet if there is local consumer demand for any additive-free wine, it is for unsulphured wine. Woolworths' selection manager, Allan Mullins CWM, confirms, "the demand is huge, but we're not there just yet." He adds that wine made from organic grapes has shown only slow growth, "quality often proving the biggest hindrance." This is probably more a shortcoming of inexperienced winemakers than the method, given the excellent biodynamic wines produced, for instance, by Olivier Humbrecht of Alsace producer, Zind Humbrecht and Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant. Despite (or because of!) their ideologies, the organic certification bodies take a responsible view towards the end result, maintaining their approach should not negatively affect taste, keeping or visual quality and that any permitted substances should not be used solely to alter the speed of processing or to recreate or improve flavours, colours or nutritional value lost during processing. If this should be winemakers' approach generally, additives are, for the majority, an unavoidable part of everyday winemaking. So the $64 000 question remains: where does one draw the line in so-called `natural' wine and, should that line be transgressed, how should the wine be identified? "It is a bit of a conundrum, isn't it?" ventures California winemaker, Zelma Long. "A good deal of wine's attraction is its 'mystique'. If it is even perceived (by wine consumers) as a manufactured beverage like Coca Cola, it will become quite a different product. The more artificial means of changing the character of wine we allow, the more it shifts from natural to industrial. Flavour additives will make it fall into this latter category."
Australian commentator, Jeremy Oliver is unequivocal, "I'm against the addition of any flavourant, or flavour enhancer. To me, the recipient fluid is no longer 'wine'." But he admits it's a grey area, "since oak is certainly deployed to enhance flavour." Jancis Robinson MW is somewhat more pragmatic, "If you can add practically everything else, why not flavouring? And in inexpensive wines, I don't see any great ethical issue - so long as the consumer can tell at a glance whether the wine's flavours are naturally derived or are assisted. Maybe it should then be called 'flavoured wine'." Her views are echoed by Larry Lockshin, Professor of Wine Marketing, University of South Australia and director of the Wine Marketing Research Group, "My opinion is be truthful on the label. Some consumers don't mind flavours being added; as long as the label declares this directly (not hidden in tiny print somewhere), then let them decide." Local commentator and original whistle-blower on the pyrazine-enhanced Sauvignon Blanc scandal, Michael Fridjhon, believes enhanced or added flavour requires appropriate declarations. In the case of oak chips, staves, micro-oxygenation, reverse osmosis and must concentration, he states in an article for Grape (June 2004): " ? it should be mandatory for the producer to declare `flavour enhanced' in a conspicuous place on the label. "However", he continues, "the moment flavourant is added whether as essence of oak, cassis or green pepper, a further declaration is required: `flavourant added'. Why? The more we permit technological strategies to overwhelm the purity of place the more we will destroy wine production in those marginal areas that traditionally have produced the world's greatest wines. If we do this, one day when you want to taste true wine, we will find that no-one makes it anymore." The additive issue might have brought about much emotional outpouring from concerned industry commentators, but to return to Hugh Johnson's remark, "what the drinker demands is ultimately what the producer will produce," what are drinkers' demands when it comes to additives? Larry Lockshin knows of no research to determine whether there is any group likely to express more concern than any other. Lynne Sherriff MW, who has much experience in the UK trade, believes, "It is more likely to be the organic shoppers, who study the ingredients list very carefully." But she also cautions, "I think it would be dangerous to assume that other consumers do not care at all." The depressing if unavoidable conclusion to the issue of legislating what goes into wine is that however many rules there are, those who are intent on breaking them, will. Know your producer is probably the best advice, as it is with a difficult vintage. The wine boom has created a commodity level, where price takes precedence for both the retailer and purchaser (largely driven by supermarkets, especially in the UK, though one must acknowledge that wine's success with a broader public is largely due to them). If it is by no means certain that consumers hooked on wine at that level will ever want to broaden their quality experience, it could also be true, to summarise Michael Fridjhon, that if technological stategies are allowed to overwhelm the purity of place, when wine drinkers do want to taste true wine, they will find that no-one makes it anymore. |
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