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High profile at high expense
It is arguably the world's most important get-together for those who wheel and deal in the serious world of wine and spirits. This year the South African presence was as professional, polished and high profile as could be. Cape producers were well represented and Wines of South Africa (Wosa) whipped up contagious enthusiasm.
It's the second year that UK organisers Brintex arranged this global event in the sassy ExCell exhibition space in London's Docklands. Afterwards they reported record attendance of 12 285 individual visitors - up 7% on the previous year. There were 1 142 exhibitors from28 countries
Yet, there are some questions about the real rewards of the London International Wine & Spirits Fair. And whether the high expense to Cape producers is worth it ...
Anthony Hamilton Russell was quite a few blocks (in the massive expanse of ExCell, we're talking NY-style street blocks!) away from his prime possy at the colourful Wosa pavilion. He was busy tasting what he, not surprisingly, is most interested in: Burgundian Chardonnay from classy producers.
He could do it, because the customer traffic at his stand was down to a trickle.
Although the opportunity for "palate calibration" - in Matt Kramer's challenging phrase - by tasting the world's best, was a plus for LIWSF-attending Cape winemakers, most agreed that they were not very busy on their own stands. Very few reported additional business. It remains mostly a networking opportunity.
Despite the jollies and edification in the company of other partners in world wine, there are quite a few South Africans who are now questioning the financial worth and effort.
Given the smooth operation and polished skills of Wosa - who seized the opportunity to get high publicity for next year's promising Cape Wine 2004 - it is something that Brintex will have to look at. It was not helping that the biennial Vinexpo in France was barely a month later. Internationally too, wine shows and trade fairs have mushroomed.
Simon Halliday, MD of Raisin-Social, one of the leading agencies for SA imports and chair of the London Wosa committee suggested that it might make sense to have the LIWSF alternatively with Vinexpo.
Nevertheless, this year's Cape presence was dynamic. No visitor could miss the South African presence.
With fine displays of crafty township ornaments brightening up the distinctly ethnic pale orange of the Wosa pavilion with its comfortable spaces, surrounded by buzzy UK agencies that have helped SA to reach fourth position in the UK retail wine sector with a volume share of 9,5%, it was a hub of activity.
The attendance of more than 60 wineries and producers at the Wosa stand - down from 107 last year - had a solid presence in the company of the massive onslaught for the minds and hearts of wine drinkers the world over by countries as diverse as Lebanon and, yes, Bali! With the attendance at agents' stands, the South African exhibits totalled 136.
An upbeat atmosphere had just about every winemaker from the Boland and beyond chatting, pouring, tasting the best of the rest of the world and sharing international notes. Afrikaans and even a smattering of Xhosa were holding up to French, Italian, German and plenty of Spanish.
The infectious, feel-good vibe among the Cape wine fraternity could have been the result of some good news that came their way.
One of the main talking points was the putting in place of effective systems to deploy some of the funding recouped from the rebate of the so-called Common Customs Tariff under the EU-SA Wine & Spirits Agreement.
It is to be spent on the first-ever generic advertising campaign here in autumn. On their return from summer vacation, UK wine drinkers will be invited to open a Cape bottle and "Explore a Different World".
Sophie Waggett of Wosa's UK office is predicting that 2003 sales volumes will be 20% up on last year's.
A massive banner in the entrance foyer announced, "Home of the Cape Blend - Beyerskloof".
Inside Mike Ratcliffe, passionate prophet of Pinotage in the "Cape Blend", had the whole lot lined up for visitors to taste at a special stall. He was talking, twisting arms and pouring away. Behind him the gold stickers on the bottles and description on the labels were evidence that an original, very classy Cape wine was being made, containing Pinotage.
On the other side of the pavilion, the Pinotage Association proper, was offering the top stuff in straight, dare-to-criticise fashion.
New names like Shamwari (Stellenbosch Vineyards' international brand venture with the global-player, Constellation Wines) and Eagle's Crest (from Swartland) added to the highly-visible push for a clear Cape identity. (Perhaps unintentionally, the massive tube add for Arniston Bay, keenly supported that.)
In particular, Cape wine also scored a smart high-plus in upmanship on numerous other producer countries by announcing details of Wieta (the SA Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association) to the media.
This voluntary body, which involve all players in the South African wine industry, has been established to define "the parameters for implementing and auditing ethical labour practices and working conditions" in the winelands. It is unique in the world and has already drawn praise from human rights groups.
Getting South Africa's most important overseas customer, the UK and its influential supermarket and other retail chains on board is a coup.
Su Birch, head of Wosa, introduced the unique project and its newly appointed CEO, Nicky Taylor. She gave a lucid, enthusiastic outline of plans ahead which aims to draw in all wine stakeholders in South Africa.
Simon Steyne of the UK Trade Union Congress, who was one of the key figures to introduce Cape winemakers to the ETI four years ago, expressed great satisfaction at Wieta as a groundbreaking project. He described the establishment of Wieta as the 'jewel in the crown' of the ETI's worldwide initiatives.
All parties were reluctant to put a direct value to the marketing advance of establishing a solid ethical basis for all South African wine in the world market. A passionate Su Birch, who has been leading the SA export drive with great success, cut no corners about the moral imperative: "Given our history, it is simply a thing we have to do..."
A highlight of the event, is the announcement of medal winners in the highly-regarded International Wine Challenge. South Africa scored a smart total of 18 golds for eye-catching wines among a massive total entry of more than 9 400.
South African Cabernet Sauvignon, in particular, had a good innings with golds to Naledi 2000, Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2001, Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection 2000, Jordan 2000 and Porcupine Ridge 2002.
Shiraz triumphed for Bilton 2001, Fairview Beacon Block 2001, Glen Carlou 2002, Graham Beck The Ridge 2000 and Saxenburg Private Collection 2000.
The Merlot golds went to Yonder Hill (2001) and Remhoogte (2000), the single Pinotage to Longridge (2001), single Pinot Noir to Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak Tête de Cuvée, while Vergelegen Estate 2000 and the unusual Fairview Pegleg Carignan 2002 also hit the top note.
Only two whites made the grade, namely Boschendal Chardonnay 2002 and Flagstone Free Run Sauvignon Blanc 2002.
At one of a couple of informative seminars, Chris Day, managing director of Berren Asset Management, the company behind the International Wine Investment Fund, told delegates that the world wine industry will be transformed with five to ten borderless 'mega' wine groups within five years. They will control most of global wine sales.
The shake-up is inevitable Day said, because 60% - 80% of global wine sales are now through supermarkets. The wine giants could be made up of 200 to 500 large wine companies, commanding 20% to 30% of the world market.
The distinctive character of wine meant that no single group would dominate the landscape in quite the same way as a Coca-Cola or Pepsi. Day said premium wines would drive growth.
"Premium wine is still projected to grow at up to 10% per year in a global market where wine consumption is broadly flat. Selected countries such as the United States, Britain, Germany and, in the long-term, some Asian countries, are projected to see their premium wine sectors grow strongly."
The subtext of this could be read to offer some good news for the Cape too.
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