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Pulling the cork on tainted wine

Wine spoilage discussed at Sasev workshop

by Edo Heyns

The word ‘corked’ is misleading and the term ‘tainted’ would be a better and less confusing description. This was one of the comments made at a distinctively interactive Sasev chemical taint workshop presented on 12 September at Nietvoorbij Stellenbosch.

This workshop was attended by winemakers, researchers, suppliers and other role players from both the wine and cork industries.

Well-known winemaker, Francois Naudé started proceedings by giving a winemaker’s perspective on TCA problem wines, which are often re­­fer­red to as ‘corked wines’. Even though corks can be major culprits associated with TCA and similar unwanted components (scientifically referred to as organohalogens), other sources such as packaging materials, treated wood and even cellar water could be part of the issue. According to Naudé, consumers have become more aware and educated concerning the problem and winemakers should therefore pay more attention to it.

He also commented on the term ‘corked’, saying that cork manufacturers immediately get the blame for what is often poor cellar hygiene practice and urged winemakers to move away from that term and rather refer to “tainted” wines.

Dr Viresh Ramburan (US) represented Quantum Laboratories, discussed trends observed in the South African industry, proving that through testing of corks and other materials for TCA, winemakers are increasingly taking note of the problem and that regular testing could prevent potentially harmful situations.

As a partnership between Stellen­bosch University and Thales Wine Cellar Services, Quantum focuses on the ana­lysis of corks, wines and cellar materials for TCA and related compounds and in so doing provides a service to the wine industry.

Viresh stated that sensory evaluation of wine is inadequate for quality control. Due to their importance, odour compounds such as TCA require accurate measurement in a complex medium such as wine. For this reason, analytical methods incorporate solid phase micro extraction (SPME), solid matrix extraction (SME) and liquid matrix extraction (LME), which are all done through expensive GC-electron capture detection equipment (GC-ECD).

In reaction, attending winemakers questioned the pricing of analyses, suggesting research into alternative and less expensive methods be sought. The detection level of TCA in wine varies considerably between wine styles and tasters. In this light, De Trafford winemaker, David Trafford, even suggested using trained dogs to detect faulty wines – something that was re­­ceived well and is not that far fetched considering what K9 noses are already being applied for.

Cork manufacturers immediately get the blame for what is often poor cellar hygiene practice.
Quantum’s statistics on the average TCA levels of cork samples from 2005-2008 did, however, show a sharp decrease in natural, agglomerate and especially champagne-type corks – showing that cork manufacturers are improving their TCA-track records and improving the quality control procedures.

Speaking about chemical taints in the cellar, Thales’ Adriaan Oelofse made it clear that prevention is better than cure. He referred to chlorine and bro­mine contamination (TCA, TBA etc.) in cellars as the most likely, potentially problematic compounds and discussed their origin and synthesis as well as problematic sources.

Backing his prevention theory, Oe­lofse also mentioned some less obvious causes of contamination such as a lack of aeration in cellars and recommended cellar hygiene audits to assure that such problems, that would usually be dismissed, are identified.

He also warned winemakers about pro­­blems around incorrect sampling and aroma screenings as well as other direct contamination possibilities via oeno­­logical agents that are usually seen as ‘safe’, such as filter sheets, yeasts, fining agents and water.

Sasev chairperson, Prof Maret du Toit – who is also very knowledgeable on the subject of wine spoilage – said that the need and role of such awareness sessions is clearly showing through the participation and questions that arose during the workshop.

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