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Major plans for red wine by Wanda Augustyn
The cellars of the Olifants River wine region are characterised by marked contrasts. For some, "Bigger is better", while for other, smaller cellars, it is the difference between quantity and quality that counts. One thing is certain, however - this wine region is fast gaining ground with its philosophy that quantity and quality are indeed reconcilable.
This was apparent after a stylish day visit to this region. Our media group was transported in a 9 seater Pilatus and a mere 45 minutes after takeoff we landed in Vredendal. From here we visited Vredendal Cellar, Klawer, Spruitdrift, Trawal, Stoumann's and Lutzville.
The Olifants River wine region is represented by eight wine cellars; apart from the above six, it also includes Goue Vallei and Cederberg. The region spans approximately 200 km, from Citrusdal alongside the Cedar mountains, to Koekenaap on the West Coast, and represents inter alia the Cape's highest as well as its westernmost vineyards. The region also plays host to the three biggest wine cellars in the country, namely Vredendal, Lutzville and Spruitdift.
In this high production irrigation area the focus has shifted to big and good, as is clear from results at the recent National Young Wine Show - two class winners (Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc blend and Vredendal Sémillon) and five gold medals (Cederberg Chenin/Sauvignon blend, Vredendal Sauvignon Blanc blend and Sauvignon Blanc, Goue Vallei Chardonnay and Chardonnay blend).
The philosophy that good wine begins in the vineyard is receiving strong support in this part of the world with viticulturist Jeff Joubert being consulted by some of the cellars. "Nowadays the emphasis falls on making wine the natural way. We want to keep the processes as natural as possible," explains Alkie van der Merwe, manager/winemaker at Trawal. "We are moving away from co-operative wines to vineyard wines."
Although this is traditionally a white wine region, there has been a shift towards red cultivars, with plantings increasing steadily. "Our ratio is 97% white and 3% red. At the current rate of planting, red cultivars will constitute about 10% in 2003. Our eventual aim is at least 25% of the total production," explains Sias du Toit of Klawer.
For other cellars such as Vredendal, the changeover will be more dramatic. "Of the total production 90% is white and 10% red. Within the next two years we want a 60:40 ratio," says red winemaker Len Knoetze.
And to prove that this traditionally white wine region can indeed produce the goods as far as the reds are concerned, the region already boasts a General Smuts trophy, that of Vredendal in 1994 for a Ruby Cabernet/Cabernet Franc blend, and this year Spruitdrift was awarded a coveted Swedish export contract for Pinotage, ahead of 65 other tenders from South Africa.
The soil in the region varies from sandy loamy alluvial soil to red sand, red Karoo and broken Karoo. It is in these so-called outer soils, ranging from red sand to broken Karoo, that plantings of red grapes are rapidly increasing, notably all the right cultivars: Shiraz, Merlot, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Ruby Cabernet. And then there is the Pinot noir, which is causing great excitement at Vredendal.
According to Sias, these soils are excellent for viticulture since they are not conducive to high yields. "Production is low and ranges from approximately 10 - 22 tons per hectare."
During lunch an informal tasting of some of the cellars' wines was held, emphasising the region's wide variety. Most of the wines are characteristically soft and flavourful, with good complexity and early drinkability. Particularly interesting was Stoumann's Vin de la Torte, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Pinotage blend. Cederberg's 2000 barrel fermented Chenin blanc is fresh and crisp with lots of fruit, especially guava, and the 1999 Spruitdrift Cabernet Sauvignon is a soft, full-bodied wine with plum flavours and a lingering aftertaste.
There is no dryland practice in this region. All the vines receive flood, drip or micro irrigation, but Sias believes that this too is in the process of changing. "My red wine soils all receive drip irrigation and water is limited. The limited water, together with the climate and the available resources, ensure exciting qualities. Flood irrigation of the traditional river soils is still common, but this practice is rapidly disappearing because water is limited and with the ever-increasing expansion, water management is also becoming more efficient."
Alkie agrees wholeheartedly. "The members are all changing to drip irrigation in their newly planted vineyards, to ensure that they are able to manage and control their water optimally."
Sias admits that the large co-operative cellars used to have a negative image. "We are changing the entire image of our wines. We want to turn the Olifants River region into one of the best red wine regions. We have the potential to do so. There is a lot of development at present and before long the region's red wines should make quite a name for themselves."
According to Alkie, "people who see us as a rebate and distilling wine area are beginning to take note. Two years ago, Trawal won gold with a Sauvignon blanc at the Young Wine Show, and that same wine was fully exported by the end of April this year.
"If you have the wines to set the world alight, why worry about anyone making a noise with a box of matches behind his back?"
The message is loud and clear: quality at affordable prices. Add to this the fact that this wine region is situated in one of the Western Cape's most popular tourist destinations, the Namaqualand flower paradise, the West Coast and the Cedarberg Wilderness area, and you have a recipe for success!
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Right: Most of the cellars are conveniently situated alongside the Olifants River.
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