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Orange River Wine Cellar shows its new colours Text and photo: Cassie du Plessis
In a wine world where "small" is fashionable, wine producers in high production irrigation areas such as the banks of the mighty Orange River have been at a disadvantage over the years. Big production, large volumes, enormous geographic distribution, huge distances. Or was it perhaps just a certain mind-set, a deep-seated conviction that there is hardly anything beyond the quality production areas of the Western Cape? Well, if that was the case, certainly it is now something of the past. Nowadays there are more than 700 wine producers along the expansive shores of the Orange - covering a distance of no less than 300 kilometres between Boegoeberg and Blouputs - who are thinking Big. Anyone who has ever had the privilege of experiencing their all-embracing hospitality, knows that these guys have big hearts. That much was rather obvious when I visited Orange River Wine Cellars (OWC) - the biggest wine co-operative in the country and apparently the second biggest in the world. But right from the start it was apparent that a new spirit was about, a new way of looking at things. The 779 producer members and almost 300 staff members entertain big and proper thoughts. Proper as in thorough and in quality. Quality affordable wines and quality grape juice, that's what they emphasise. And they will do it on a big scale - for that is the one thing they do well - but with new style. The new style is reflected in the striking new advertising and promotional material and new labels of the flagship wines. The liberal use of sandy colours, orange in particular, the symbolism quite apparent, makes for striking graphics, together with green vineyards and orange-red Kalahari sand, yellow grass and even a characteristic shepherd's tree. The new labels are modern with clean lines and a black and gold background respectively on two front panels, testifying to good taste and finesse. The message is clear as daylight. OWC is moving towards a quality image and intends competing with the best in all respects. This goes hand in hand with renewal and adjustment. The most obvious example of this commitment is a new wine range, the exclusive announcement of which is right here, in this particular issue of WineLand. It is aimed at value for money and everyday drinking enjoyment, but with the added touch of character and style on which the consumer insists. It will be released towards the end of the year under the fascinating name "Jintelmans"... obviously referring to the English "gentlemen's". The idea, explains marketing and administrative manager Koos Visser, was to use something authentic from the regional culture, such as this typical Afrikaans derivative. The label, with three variations of typical "gentlemen" from the start of the previous century - naturally for three styles of wine - was designed by Dawid Toua of Paarl. OWC does not hesitate to make use of outside specialists as and when required. In the same vein, at the time of my visit the board had just appointed a marketing specialist to expand and streamline the team of Koos and his marketing assistants "JJ" Badenhorst and Adelé Victor. Dawie van Wyk, formerly of Simonsvlei in Paarl and Oddbins in the UK, was due to commence duties in the near future. With regard to Jintelmans, Koos explains that initially the product will be available in 1 000 ml format only, in an economic and practical container, the carton Purepack. Thanks to innovation by the suppliers, Nampak Liquid, the printing on the box will set a new standard, says "Koos Vis". The container is guaranteed to keep the wine in good condition for up to eight months and it has a convenient little plastic screw cap.
The price, which still has to be finalised, will be particularly reasonable. Jintelmans will be available countrywide and in Namibia, one of the reasons for OWC's huge success being their mighty distribution network, with six distribution points at their production plants, as well as eight depots throughout the country.
Jintelmans, to be launched towards the end of the year, will be supported by a delightful advertising and promotional campaign with a slogan that emphasises its positioning for folk who enjoy life without fuss. The OWC renaissance is obviously not limited to "vin ordinaire". Their flagship wines are now available in fancy new packaging and the range comprises Chardonnay, Grand Cru, Colombar, Blanc de Noir, Rosé, Ruby Cabernet and sparkling wine. In that part of the world Ruby Cabernet is the red wine cultivar being planted most at the moment, with management believing that the wine has big potential in the area, considering its success in the warmer wine regions. While Pinotage plantings are also increasing, some members are planting Shiraz and Merlot on selected terrains with special micro climates. Jurie de Kock, winemaker of Keimoes, one of the five wine cellars that constitute OWC, is excited about his 2000 vintage Ruby and reckons the balance will be even better than the '99, a medium-bodied wine with prominent berry character, aimed at early consumption. The other wine cellars in the group are Upington, where the administrative head office is situated, as well as Kakamas, Groblershoop and Grootdrink. At each of these cellars the emphasis falls on that specific area's unique and positive characteristics. All the wine is bottled centrally at the Upington head office. In addition to sultanas, 21 wine cultivars are cultivated. An important aspect of the new approach is incentives to plant quality cultivars. The winemaking team consists of Jannie Engelbrecht and Johan Esterhuizen in Upington, Botha Louw in Kakamas, Jurie de Kock in Keimoes, Danie Vollgraaff in Grootdrink and Chris Venter in Groblershoop, with Matthee van Schalkwyk (Kakamas) as manager: production and planning and Gert Visser in charge of bottling. For the increasing juice production - which is delivered entirely under contract to KWV - two production sites are used, namely the brand new concentrate plant at Kanoneiland managed by "JJ" and the cellar at Grootdrink. "JJ" even sleeps on site during the December and January holiday season, when the big juice-intake takes place. Silent witness to his dedication are the single bed and television set in his office. By the way, "JJ", who was a winemaker at OWC until ten years ago - and acted as my enthusiastic guide, host, bodyguard and chauffeur - says that the name Grootdrink does not refer to "big social drinking"; but to water and animals. Then again the cellar's Witsem wine does have something to do with lightning, but he reveals no more. Witsem is another of the colourful, fun labels in the extensive OWC portfolio. On a hunting excursion in the southern Kalahari with some of the cellar's personnel, I discovered that the OWC sweet wines are great fun in the veld. The exceptional, bright yellow white hanepoot is packaged in a brown two litre plastic container jokingly referred to as a "hand grenade". It is also available in a glass bottle for more sophisticated enjoyment. The fortified products include four sherries, white port and red port, as well as white and red muscadel. The complete range currently comprises 30 bottled products. This year's intake of grapes for wine amounted to 78 000 tons, with 37 000 tons of juice. OWC's total capacity is 144 000 tons of wine and 40 000 tons of juice, but the latter will be expanded to 82 000 tons by 2004. Their growth is demonstrated by the intake which increased from 5 182 tons in the first harvest in 1968 to a record 114 000 tons in 1997. According to Matthee van Schalkwyk, the region's soils range from fertile silty soils next to the river, to stony exterior soil and sandy red soil. There is no dryland practice, due to the low rainfall and high temperatures. All vineyards enjoy flood, micro or drip irrigation.
Slopes are few and far between and the high development cost means that these are not much planted at all. OWC uses a temperature grading system which encourages maximum volumes of cooler grapes. Early morning harvesting is on the increase. Matthee furthermore emphasises their belief in efficient application, as reflected in the cultivar composition. The grapes are divided among good wine, juice and distilling wine according to the demands of the market. "Five years ago we started to adjust to the market demand for more sophisticated wines. The right soils for top cultivars were identified and we stipulated requirements for soil preparation, fertilisation, plant widths, trellising methods and pruning. Production is controlled and grapes monitored for degree of ripeness, pH and acid, and producers work closely with a viticultural extension consultant. This project is crystallising and the results are already being achieved. "With regard to juice," Matthee adds, "our high yield and sunny climate are eminently suited to this industry. We have pumped millions of rands into it and at times we wondered whether we adopted the right course... but we are not sorry." Well, just like the donkey of Upington's well-known monument, the wine farmers of the Orange River have come a long, exhausting way since their cellar was founded in 1965, following investigations into an alternative processing method for grapes not suited to raisins. But the kind of inspiration that sets them apart nowadays, may be compared to the elegance and agility of the graceful Kalahari springboks.
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Right: Where once stood cacti, Dirk Malan of Lappiesland near Keimoes will soon plant Shiraz.
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