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German perseverance against the Dassenberg Hymli Krige
When a traffic official stopped an overhasty Evi Schlichtman on her way to Stellenbosch, he patiently took out his book, then asked her name and what she did, her reply was: "I do everything!"
"No, Madam," the official explained, "what is your occupation?"
"O. Architect," she replied, but the first answer was nevertheless much closer to the truth.
Evi and Georg Schlichtman are two energetic Germans who found their ideal lifestyle on a wine farm in Franschhoek seven years ago. Since then a lot of hard work has changed that lifestyle, but the enterprising couple remain adamant that it is exactly what they want from life.
In his "previous" life, Georg was involved in organisational development at BMW in Munich. His first acquaintance with South Africa was made at the time, in a practical training programme for a black student from Natal. A few years, a few detours and a few good friends in the wine industry later, they bought the farm against the foothills of the Dassenberg in Franschhoek and named it Von Ortloff, for Evi's family.
The Von Ortloff name dates from 1686 and the family received nobility status in 1866. To the Von Ortloffs, the name represented the ideal blend of cultures. In these two Germans culture and art are deeply rooted passions (in addition to wine). In the Von Ortloff tasting venue, the art collection ranges from the extremely unusual to the more predictable exhibition of wine bottles. The most unusual stands in a corner, namely a life size white gypsum newspaper vendor.
Georg, an animated raconteur, explains that the newspaper vendor was in fact part of an exhibition in the BMW museum, and that the statue was auctioned when the exhibition came to a close. To his absolute delight and surprise, Georg then became the owner of Ede, who also found his way to Franschhoek, still clutching the Mnchner Illustrierte Presse.
The tasting venue and all the other buildings on the farm, including the new wine cellar that was baptised in 1999, were restored or designed by Evi. The vineyard and vinification activities were learnt the hard way.
George acknowledges a great debt to Jacques Borman, who assisted the two Germans with word and deed. In time the 15 hectare farm was measured and all the necessary tests conducted. Although vines had been planted, the Schlichtmans started a new planting programme which forced them to work from scratch.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were the first cultivars to be planted, followed by Sauvignon blanc against the lower slope down by the river. The slope, with soil consisting of sandy loam and a clay substructure, impelled Georg to establish his vineyard on ridges, two rows to a ridge, and the ditches in between running at a 3% slope to where a central ditch relays the run-off water to the river.
Obviously the ridges limited the cultivatable surface per hectare, and instead of planting effectively at a density of 9 500 vines per hectare, there are only 4 000 vines, "but in this way I incorporate the stress element in the vineyard," he explains.
The vineyards all lie between 200 and 300 metres above sea level and face north to north-east. Serious fire damage was caused against the slopes of the Dassenberg earlier this year, but Georg, ever optimistic, considered this to be his first cleaning up operation before establishing five hectares of new vines on the same terrain. His most recent plantings were Chardonnay.
His labour force on the farm consists of three people. "We built the cellar so that Evi and I can handle it ourselves over weekends." Seasonal labour is provided by contract teams, most of which have remained the same over the years so that additional training has been unnecessary.
Furthermore everything is approached with the greatest dedication and thoroughness. Neat, orderly and hygienic in typical German style, with an artistic touch here and there - such as the occasional blue floor tiles in the cellar painted by Clementina van der Walt, based on a Hundertwasser design dear to Evi.
Initially grapes were delivered to the co-op, then facilities were rented to make small quantities of their own wine, and eventually in 2000 Georg and Evi handled their first crop in their own cellar. Notwithstanding a few trivial blunders, they survived the exercise and produced a good few thousand cases of wine.
"We are prepared to be patient," Georg reasons. He wants to make his wines in a more classical style and has decided to market them in two ranges. The core Von Ortloff identity is revealed in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, while the Merlot and Sauvignon blanc are marketed as Von Ortloff No 5 and No 7 - his "love child" wines. "With these wines I want to experiment freely. I want to keep my options open."
Although the latter range has elicited reaction comparing it to Chanel No 5 (just to ensure that Von Ortloff does not put perfume in the bottle) it has maintained a low profile on the local market. Georg distributes his wines mainly through wine clubs, with most of the sales taking place in Germany. In future, however, they do intend to supply more of their wine to the local market.
How do they split up responsibilities? Georg has to think awhile before arriving at a logical division. "Evi does more pruning while I do the training of the vines, but actually we both do everything. Even gardening." But since Evi was given a tractor lawnmower for her most recent birthday, it is quite clear who actually handles that department!
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Right: "Evi and I dream and sleep vineyard management and development," says Georg Schlichtman. Considering what these two Germans have achieved at Von Ortloff, one has to believe him (that is to say, if they ever manage to get some sleep).
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