Springfontein Wine Estate last year commemorated 50 years since the first release of South Africa’s other proudly local wine grape varietal, Chenel. This varietal tells the story of tradition, innovation and collaboration at the heart of South African agriculture.
It all began at Elsenburg Agricultural College, where Chris Orffer was a lecturer and researcher. “He lay the groundwork for creating this cross between Chenin Blanc and Ugni Blanc that would become known as Chenel,” explains Daryl Jacobs, former Deputy Director General of Elsenburg College.
Although Professor Orffer completed the first crossing in 1950, it took 24 years of evaluation before the clone was considered viable. “Back then, plant breeding was done the long way,” says Vinpro viticulturist Gert Engelbrecht, who consults at Springfontein. “It was a painstaking process to plant it out, measure the performance, and breeding those selections back into previous generations.”
Three of those years were devoted to improving cracking and Botrytis infection tolerance. The result was a promising varietal, initially dubbed K1 (Kruising 1), which was significantly less prone to rot than Chenin.
The new varietal, dubbed Chenel, was commercially released in 1974. “Not many people know the name is a combination between ‘Chenin’ and ‘EL’ for Elsenburg,” Darryl says.
Vinpro viticulturist Gert Engelbrecht inspecting organically grown Chenel at Springfontein Wine Estate.
Cultivation
Chenel was initially planted widely throughout the country. Until 1994, the wine industry was dominated by distilling wine and neutral varietals with high yields were popular. A well-trained and properly irrigated Chenel vineyard could easily deliver over 30 tonnes per hectare.
The cross inherited many of Chenin Blanc’s characteristics. Budding and flowering occur five days after Chenin, and it is also harvested about a week after Chenin, while achieving the same acidity and sugar as its parent. Chenel does well in wet conditions and is somewhat resistant to downy and powdery mildew.
A period of decline
By 1995, South Africa boasted 2.8 million Chenel vines – approximately 1260 ha – according to Vititec CEO André van Wyk. As recently as 2014, it was still grown in almost every wine region. Unfortunately, many of the plantings were diseased and weren’t being replaced.
The popularity of Chenin Blanc and Colombar might also have contributed to its decline, among other factors. Chemical sprays were an accepted way of ensuring high yields, and Chenel’s natural resilience wasn’t an important consideration at the time.
By 2014, regions like Robertson and the Northern Cape had uprooted most of their Chenel vineyards, and in 2023 the total area under Chenel had dropped to just 28 ha.
But thanks to a new generation of conscious consumers and innovative winemakers who are willing to experiment, the winds of change may be blowing in Chenel’s favour once again.
Resurgence
Due to its resilience and ability, Chenel thrives in dry conditions as well as cooler regions with well-drained soils, but arguably its greatest strength is its drought tolerance. “With climate change bringing increasing unpredictability to weather patterns, Chenel offers a solution to winemakers looking for sustainability without sacrificing quality,” Gert says. “Since it’s also disease-resistant, it can be economically viable for both small and large producers as it is less reliant on water and pesticides.”
“Chenel makes well-balanced wine with a neutral palate and floral character,” Gert says. “This makes it well-suited to the current trend of following natural wine-making practices in niche varieties.”
“That neutrality provides a blank slate for expressing terroir, cultivation, region, climate and soils,” he adds. “With the right vinification practices, you can build structure and tannin, and that neutrality becomes an opportunity as seen at Springfontein.”
Springfontein’s winemaker, Jeanne Vito.
Winemaking
One of the grape’s main challenges today is its relative obscurity on the global stage, but South Africa can turn this into an advantage as international interest in South Africa as a unique destination for wine tourism grows.
Chenel is a versatile grape, able to produce wines that can fit in various price points. Winemakers have experimented with a variety of techniques, from stainless steel fermentation, which emphasises the grape’s crisp mineral qualities, to oak ageing for a richer, more complex wine.
Springfontein Wine Estate has itself been experimenting with skin-fermentation, enzymatic-anaerobic whole-berry fermentation, as well as egg-shaped PUR tanks, which allow micro-oxidation similar to oak but without influencing the taste.
Chenel is well-suited for niche markets. “Consumers are increasingly seeking out wines that offer something different,” Daryl says. “Chenel’s distinctive flavour profile and sustainability credentials make it an attractive option.”
Springfontein Wine Estate is the only producer currently bottling Chenel as a single varietal.
Getting together
Discussion about the establishment of an official Chenel Association is underway. Such an organisation could serve as a hub to ensure this proudly South African grape variety finally reaches its full potential.
“Winemakers, marketers, producers and distributors can pool resources, share knowledge, and promote Chenel on a larger scale,” Darryl says. “An Association would help secure funding for research, organise educational initiatives, and promote Chenel in key export markets to ensure it reaches its full potential.”
Gert also believes a varietal association will allow producers and winemakers to shape the narrative of Chenel into a clear message, as there are no preconceived ideas about it. “It won’t happen overnight, but the market will respond to a consistent story. We have a blank slate.”
“South Africa hasn’t yet unlocked the potential of our terroir,” says Dr Etienne Terblanche, Vinpro Consultation Services Manager. “Only six varieties make up almost 80% of our plantings. Diversifying our varietal spectrum will not only make us more climate resilient but also allow us to offer something truly unique.”
“South Africa still requires significant premiumisation to survive or thrive as a wine-producing country, and varieties like Chenel are one of the ideal arrows in that quiver,” he says. “The most premium categories are those able to reflect place.”
