Herold Wines, close to George, is a gem tucked away in a beautiful valley on the north facing slopes of Cradock Peak, which forms the highest crest of the Outeniqua Mountain range, at 1578 meters. This range runs parallel to the Southern Cape Coast forming a continuous range with the Langeberg to the west and the Tsitsikamma Mountains to the east. The name Outeniqua originates from a Khoikhoi word which means “they who bear honey”.
Having been somewhat involved in the beginning years of the project, I was interested to see what progress has been made on this unique site. So on a recent visit to George I drove over the Outeniqua Pass which was shrouded in mist with a light drizzle falling. Once over the pass one turns a little way towards Uniondale before taking the turn-off to Herold. The road is in a fair condition but is certainly less travelled. Some fields of very tall hops next to the road tells a story of the special environment I pass through. These bines are very particular about growing conditions and require plenty of moisture and long daylight hours amongst other things.
Continuing up the valley road, a paradise unfolds, where humans still tread lightly.
Marc Chandler, who lived in Johannesburg at the time, had a dream to recreate wines with burgundian characteristics and bought the 324 hectare farm in 1997. His sister Vivien, living in George at the time, assisted him on the ground. The first Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1999. The vineyards are embraced on three sides by fynbos covered slopes, home to the Cape leopard, baboons, bush pigs, klipspringer and other small buck as well as an abundance of bird species crowned by the majestic black eagle. It sounds idyllic but creating successful vineyards in these wild surroundings comes with many unique challenges requiring vigilance and creative solutions. Nico and Maureen Fourie, who bought the farm in 2011, are hands-on and up for the task.
Currently the vineyard has grown to 8ha of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and a sprinkling of Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon at an elevation of 650m and 700m. I am excited about the latest plantings of Semillon and especially the Riesling in this unique terroir. It is not easy to find areas suitable for this grape in South Africa. The high altitude (700m), mountain mists, winters with frosts and snow, cooling south easterly winds in summer, year-round rainfall, as well as a protracted growing season, all bodes well for this finicky variety which I consider as one of the world’s greatest.
Riesling is often misunderstood and not easy to sell, but to the converted, it becomes a life-long love affair. After a long period of local varietal confusion created by calling Crouchen, an obscure French variety, Cape or Paarl Riesling, the South African Wine and Spirit Board (SAWB) agreed in 2008, that there is only one true Riesling – the noble variety which originates from the Rhine region in Germany. Previously used with the prefix Rhine or Weisser, Riesling, without any prefix. could appear on bottles for sale in South Africa, since 2010.
I was excited to taste a wonderful line-up of Riesling with Nico and it did not disappoint! I like the classic simplicity of the old label. The 2016 was the first year of production and took a while to catch its breath before revealing typical mouth watering fruity acidity, green apple and that steely mineral scented core, while revealing some mature toastiness and a touch of kerosene so typical of the variety.
The 2017 convinced me that the moniker “they who bear honey” was still true of these mountains! A beautifully poised wine with the classic balance of high natural acidity and some residual sugar. A real charmer!
Riesling has a wonderful ability to express the character of the place where it is grown and invites you into the glass with aromas of orchard blossoms and zesty limes only to find unexpected depth which becomes more expressive with age.
The 2018 and 2020 were both characterful and dry with that steely, lemony tension which makes Riesling so unique. Time in the bottle will enhance their fine attributes.
A delicious surprise was a lightly wooded 2019 Sauvignon Blanc with peaches and cream richness and excellent integration and balance. A real find.
The 5 Pinot Noirs – a 2017, two 2018’s, 2019 and a 2020, all showed lovely purity and good cultivar characteristics. Each wine was treated to a unique cellar regime showing distinct differences in the end results. The 2020 remained in new wood for 24 months and showed great attitude with intense berry/cassis and good balance.
Maureen provides light meals such as a local cheese platter, which combined with the beautiful surroundings, champagne-like air and delicious wines is sure to revive the senses and reward the journey.