Terroir is the unspoken language of wine — a dialect of soil, climate and topography that finds its voice in every bottle. Perhaps nowhere is this more evident than in Stellenbosch, particularly in the Simonsberg region, where the land’s character finds eloquent expression in the wines of Tokara.
Karl Lambour, general manager at Tokara, spent years working with this terroir. He firmly believes that Stellenbosch’s landscape is a defining cog in the machine that is South Africa’s exceptional quality of wines.
Stellenbosch’s winemaking pedigree is built upon a foundation of ancient geology, Karl says. “Some of the oldest viticultural soils in the world can be found here, shaped over millennia by powerful tectonic shifts and climatic forces. The dominant geological formations – granite, Malmesbury shale, and sandstone – provide a rich tapestry of textures, mineral content, and water retention capacities, each subtly influencing vine growth and fruit expression.”
In the Simonsberg sub-region, where altitudes range from 200 to over 1300 metres above sea level, vineyards benefit from a combination of southwesterly aspects and cooling summer breezes from False Bay. These conditions extend the ripening period, allowing for the slow accumulation of phenolics and flavour compounds. The result? Wines of remarkable depth, balance, and longevity.
“Here, you will find a Mediterranean climate – warm, dry summers balanced by cool, wet winters. This climate is moderated by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean, which tempers extreme heat and introduces a crucial diurnal shift. This variation between day and night temperatures ensures that grapes retain their natural acidity while developing layered, concentrated flavours,” Karl says.
Rainfall patterns also play a role. With an average of 600 to 750 mm per year, vineyards receive sufficient water without excessive dilution of fruit intensity. However, the region’s varied topography results in microclimates that allow different grape varieties to thrive in specific pockets. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz dominate Simonsberg’s slopes, while Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay find their best expression in the more temperate sites.
Respected provenance
Recognition of Stellenbosch’s terroir-driven quality is well documented. Tim Atkin MW’s 2024 South Africa Special Report continued to underline the region’s standing, highlighting its ability to produce wines that rival the best from Bordeaux and the Rhône. Similarly, the Prescient Old Vine Report affirms the importance of mature vineyards in expressing the essence of site and soil. “The ongoing study of old vines in South Africa looks at how deeply rooted vines – some exceeding 35 years – produce wines of profound complexity, concentration, and a true sense of place,” Karl says.
While descriptions of Stellenbosch terroir have been methodical and geographic, it’s the test of time that really makes its wines stand out compared to those in foreign cellars, far-off destinations. “We simply can’t hide away from the fact that it really comes down to its roots, its birthplace,” he adds. “Cabernet Sauvignon from this ward is structured and age-worthy, with fine-grained tannins, dark berry fruit, and a characteristic graphite minerality. Shiraz is equally compelling, often displaying spice, fynbos, and savoury notes that speak to the region’s indigenous vegetation. You can’t put a measure to that ‘something different’ that makes winemakers from here beam with pride when they pitch at international tastings.”
And then there’s Pinotage, the uniquely South African grape variety that benefits from the region’s well-drained soils and temperate climate. “The resulting wines stand for the potential of this oft-misunderstood variety when planted in the right place and handled with care.”
Proclaim and preserve
“It’s our responsibility to ensure future generations of winemakers inherit a terroir that remains as expressive and viable as it is today,” Karl says. “Sustainable farming, conservation of indigenous flora, and responsible water management are all important to preserving the equilibrium that makes Stellenbosch wines so distinctive.”
“Understanding terroir is a listening act. This philosophy has shaped our approach to winemaking, and it is why we believe Stellenbosch, particularly the Simonsberg region, will continue to be at the forefront of South African fine wine.
“Stellenbosch’s terroir is our wine industry’s greatest asset, and it is up to us to interpret and express it in a way that speaks to tradition and innovation. If the land continues to shape the wine, then we, as custodians, must remain faithful translators of its message.”
