Vergelegen wine estate, one of South Africa’s premier wine producers, has appointed Luke O’Cuinneagain as new winemaker following in the footsteps of the legendary André van Rensburg (1998-2022) and Martin Meinert (1989-1998). Luke officially took over the reins in September this year.

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Vergelegen’s new winemaker, Luke O’Cuinneagain.

What was it that drew you to study winemaking?

I grew up in the Western Cape, in Tokai near Constantia, close to the Steenberg vineyards. During prep school we’d do cross country running around the Klein Constantia vineyards. So a lot of my childhood was spent around the Constantia vineyards in general.

I went to Stellenbosch University to study for a B.Sc., as I intended following this with veterinary science at Onderstepoort. However, straight out of school, before the first university term began, I started working at Buitenverwachting in their wine tasting centre. While studying I worked in the Constantia Uitsig vineyards and Constantia Uitsig wine merchants. I met André Badenhorst at Constantia Uitsig and he showed me around the cellar, and I loved finding out what was happening in the cellar, vineyards and retail.

When my older brothers reached drinking age they enjoyed wine and became avid collectors. They were also integral to introducing me to the world of wine.

I was able to swap courses at Stellenbosch, as my subjects were similar, and to start studying viticulture and oenology. During my final year at university I began working at Rustenberg with Adi Badenhorst, and to continue after graduating. I was fortunate to have stints working overseas in Bordeaux and Alsace, and in the USA, and then return to Rustenberg in between. I then met Madame de Lencquesaing, founder of Glenelly, and spent 14 years at her estate.

What are some highlights of your career thus far?

Scores of 97 and 98 with Tim Atkin, and reaching the Top 100 Wines of the Year with Wine Spectator, and Top 100 wines at Wine Enthusiast, were key moments.

However, it’s the individuals you meet that are the real highlights. I have met some astonishing people over the years, gaining access because of my involvement in wine. Wine is a fantastic product as it breaks down barriers, it’s a great leveller. You can get to talk to captains of industry, local and international, and share a common passion for wine. Madame de Lencquesaing has been a true inspiration in my career and life in general. Her absolute drive and willingness to take the paths less travelled, have been inspirational.

How did you feel about stepping into the large shoes of André van Rensburg?

While the first vines were planted at Vergelegen in 1700, vineyards were not always part of the estate’s history, and André has done an unbelievable job in bringing wine to the fore at the property. Vergelegen is truly a legacy estate. I see André, myself and whoever comes next as custodians of this property, and its expression.

What is your approach to winemaking?

I have always had a hands-off approach to wine, instilled since working with Adi Badenhorst. I aim to get a sense of place and expression of site coming through; also the expression of vintage – we want to show the variations, they are the fingerprints that make wine interesting for enthusiasts. We want this absolute expression of a point in time. When you drink a bottle of wine you are opening a snapshot into the geology, geography and microclimate at that point in time. We want to capture and express this.

Our goal to produce not only high quality wines that are world-renowned, but wines that have an absolute sense of place and are very individualistic to this area. We must showcase this unique site and get people to understand the true history of this property through the wine.

Are you introducing any changes to reflect your own style and philosophy?

At present no changes are planned. I have a lot of work and time ahead to understand the individual vineyards and their sites, and from that we can decide. There is also time to be spent working in the cellar to understand how it functions. Until you’ve put grapes through the whole system, you don’t know how the building performs. According to the performance, we can make changes if required.

We’ve had an interesting start to the season. There has not been as much wind as normal, and we are way behind on rainfall, so the dry land vineyards may take a bit more strain later on in the year. The crop looks exceptionally healthy, but we are still at too early a stage to make any predictions.

How do you like to relax?

Water-skiing, and I build steam locomotives – I find that absolute break, and focus, very relaxing. I enjoy cooking, my wife says I do the fun weekend cooking and she does the weekday preparation. I try to alter people’s perceptions of what wine goes with what food. If you’re clever with your cooking, you can serve red wines with fish for example, and white wine with meat dishes – it’s about having fun with food and wine at the same time.

To find out more: vergelegen.co.za/wine-range | [email protected]

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